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Old 05-10-2010, 11:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Conditioning Your Dog

I am very curious about learning what methods can condition your dog for weight pull. I know a bit about conditioning but there is always more I can learn....



So, what exercise methods can be done to condition your dog, In what parts of the body does it build up muscle tone?

What kind of diet should the dog have while conditioning?


I guessed that the dog should be at least 18 months before trying to condition, is this correct?

American Pit Bull Terriers are built like the tri-athlete. They are naturally strong so adding stamina will increase their ability to perform longer and more intense tasks than a power lifter type, is this true?

I think
keeping the weights to reasonable amounts will help build your dog up and not break them down during the process, is this correct?


Things i know not to do: Put a heavy chain around your dog's neck. As this is ineffective, but it can damage the dogs neck , or cripple them.

Is Blue Buffalo considered a good dog food?
(ingredients below with both foods)
Deboned Chicken, Chicken Meal, Whole Ground Brown Rice, Whole Ground Barley, Oatmeal, Chicken Fat (naturally preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Rye, Tomato Pomace (natural source of Lycopene), Menhaden Fish Meal (natural source of DHA-Docosahexaenoic Acid), Natural Chicken Flavor, Whole Potatoes, Peas, Whole Carrots, Whole Sweet Potatoes, Dried Egg, Blueberries, Cranberries, Flaxseed(natural source of Omega 3 and 6 Fatty Acids), Barley Grass, Dried Parsley, Garlic, Alfalfa Meal, Dried Kelp, Yucca Schidigera Extract, L-Carnitine, L-Lysine, Turmeric, Sunflower Oil (natural source of Omega 6 Fatty Acids), Fish Oil (natural source of Omega 3 Fatty Acids), Dried Chicory Root, Oil of Rosemary, Beta Carotene, Vitamin A Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Niacin (Vitamin B3), d-Calcium Pantothenate (Vitamin B5), Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Biotin (Vitamin B7), Folic Acid (Vitamin B9), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Calcium Ascorbate (source of Vitamin C), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Iron Amino Acid Chelate, Zinc Amino Acid Chelate, Manganese Amino Acid Chelate, Copper Amino Acid Chelate, Choline Chloride, Sodium Selenite, Calcium Iodate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Salt, Caramel, Potassium Chloride, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Bacillus subtilis, Enterococcus faecium.


Guaranteed Analysis
Crude Protein (min.) 27.0%, Crude Fat (min.) 16.0%, Crude Fiber (max.) 4.0%, Moisture (max.) 10.0%, Calcium (min.) 1.3%, Phosphorus (min.) 1.0%, DHA* (min) 0.1%, Omega 3 Fatty Acids* (min.) 0.40%, Omega 6 Fatty Acids* (min.) 3.5%.



What about Halo?
Chicken, pea protein, whole dry egg, oats, vegetable broth, pearled barley, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid), pea flour, chicken liver, salmon, flaxseed, salmon oil (preserved with mixed tocopherols), pea fiber, sweet potatoes, apples, blueberries, green beans, carrots, cranberries, zucchini, alfalfa, inulin, calcium sulfate, potassium chloride, taurine, salt, folic acid, zinc proteinate, iron proteinate, cobalt proteinate, copper proteinate, manganese proteinate, vitamin A supplement, vitamin D3 supplement, vitamin E supplement, choline bitartrate, niacin, pantothenic acid, ascorbic acid, riboflavin supplement, thiamine mononitrate, pyridoxine hydrochloride, lactobacillus acidophilus, bifidobacterium longum, enterococcus faecium, lactobacillus plantarum, calcium iodate, biotin, sodium selenite


Guaranteed Analysis
Crude Protein (min.) 30.0%, Crude Fat (min.) 20.0%, Crude Fiber (max.) 6.5%, Moisture (max.) 10.0%, Omega 6 Fatty Acids (min.*) 3.1%, Omega 3 Fatty Acids (min.*) .50%, Taurine (min.*) 0.1%, Lactobacillus Acidophilus (min.*) 120,000,000 CFU/lb, Bifidobacterium Longum (min.*) 120,000,000 CFU/lb, Lactobacillus Plantarum (min.*) 120,000,000 CFU/lb, Enterococcous Faecium (min.*) 120,000,000 CFU/lb



K, that's all for the questions i can think of. But i'm positive that there is more i should know.

Thanks in advance!


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Old 05-11-2010, 12:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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I've gotten good results with long distance running across country terrian, swimming, long distances sprints(200yards) and flirt pole exercise. Swimming is great exercise works the body good and its not hard on the dogs joints. If you have a dog that is interested in a spring pole this can be a very good exercise for your dog. I think that if you lower the rope so that the dogs hind legs are touching the ground once engaged with the rope, hide or whatever is attached, the dog is still holding a good % of his/her weight to strengthin the jaw and neck, but since the rope has been lowered they can drive backwards working multiple muscles throughout their body. I don't see the point and having your dog jump 5ft to hold on to a rope thats pointless, lower the rope and give your dog a more complete and safe work out.

When I get a pup, I get them outside at a young age, let them play at their own pace. I don't condition them, I just try to keep them active until they get tired and go to sleep. Once my dogs reach about 10months old I start exercising them a good bit, once they hit a year old they really get worked.
If I had a picture of my Boxer I use to have I would show you, he was fit that dog could pull a tree stump out the ground.

I'm not a expert in the nutrition, I've always just try to feel good quality kibble. My boxer ate cheap food and was monster(good genetics I say)

Keeping the weights at a reasonable amount is smart, you don't want to hurt the dog or break him mentally. work your way up slowly. I wouldn't max your dog out in weight pullinguntil the dog is aleast 1.5 years old.

I believe this type of conditioning could get your dogs body ready for weight pulling, worked for my dog Red.

Please excuse any grammer errors I'm tired.
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Mcleod15 View Post
I've gotten good results with long distance running across country terrian, swimming, long distances sprints(200yards) and flirt pole exercise. Swimming is great exercise works the body good and its not hard on the dogs joints. If you have a dog that is interested in a spring pole this can be a very good exercise for your dog. I think that if you lower the rope so that the dogs hind legs are touching the ground once engaged with the rope, hide or whatever is attached, the dog is still holding a good % of his/her weight to strengthin the jaw and neck, but since the rope has been lowered they can drive backwards working multiple muscles throughout their body. I don't see the point and having your dog jump 5ft to hold on to a rope thats pointless, lower the rope and give your dog a more complete and safe work out.

When I get a pup, I get them outside at a young age, let them play at their own pace. I don't condition them, I just try to keep them active until they get tired and go to sleep. Once my dogs reach about 10months old I start exercising them a good bit, once they hit a year old they really get worked.
If I had a picture of my Boxer I use to have I would show you, he was fit that dog could pull a tree stump out the ground.

I'm not a expert in the nutrition, I've always just try to feel good quality kibble. My boxer ate cheap food and was monster(good genetics I say)

Keeping the weights at a reasonable amount is smart, you don't want to hurt the dog or break him mentally. work your way up slowly. I wouldn't max your dog out in weight pullinguntil the dog is aleast 1.5 years old.

I believe this type of conditioning could get your dogs body ready for weight pulling, worked for my dog Red.

Please excuse any grammer errors I'm tired.
Hi! Thanks for replying



What about that dog food i posted above? If that good?
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Old 05-12-2010, 11:44 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I guess you could say that I don't work on conditioning. I let Vendetta run and play at her own speed. I do work her on fetch more for me so she is less hyper in the house. I have run up a a small incline that I have in the back yard. I also take her to the lake during the nicer months. I have run in the sand and up and down the banks. This year she started going in the water. Yea!!

It really depends on the genetic make up of your dog as to how conditioned they will be.



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Old 05-12-2010, 11:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BittersweetEmbrace View Post
Hi! Thanks for replying



What about that dog food i posted above? If that good?

I've heard good things about the blue buffalo from some people but I've never used it.

I use TOTW high prarie and wetlands dry food, and I mix Innova Evo wet with it.
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Mcleod15 View Post
I've heard good things about the blue buffalo from some people but I've never used it.

I use TOTW high prarie and wetlands dry food, and I mix Innova Evo wet with it.
I've been informed about Innova, i'll read up about it again Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by MY MIKADO View Post
I guess you could say that I don't work on conditioning. I let Vendetta run and play at her own speed. I do work her on fetch more for me so she is less hyper in the house. I have run up a a small incline that I have in the back yard. I also take her to the lake during the nicer months. I have run in the sand and up and down the banks. This year she started going in the water. Yea!!

It really depends on the genetic make up of your dog as to how conditioned they will be.
lol yay Vendetta!

Thanks for your reply
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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As far as food goes nothing beats raw or at least grain free. Plenty of quality grain free feeds out there


As far as conditioning goes... Like mcleod said, SWIMMING is great, since we don't have much access to water we do a lot of flirt pole work, you can play fetch (but this works better in a larger area where they dont have to stop abruptly-bad on joints), long walks, long walks, long walk. If you have the money for it, slat mills are good for building wind.

As far as building muscle.. It's gonna be mostly genetics but constant activity and quality food will bring out the best in your dog. You can start drag weights around 7 months, using very very very light weight, springpole, carpet mills.. Alll of those things accentuate what your dog has genetically
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StaffyDaddy View Post
As far as food goes nothing beats raw or at least grain free. Plenty of quality grain free feeds out there


As far as conditioning goes... Like mcleod said, SWIMMING is great, since we don't have much access to water we do a lot of flirt pole work, you can play fetch (but this works better in a larger area where they dont have to stop abruptly-bad on joints), long walks, long walks, long walk. If you have the money for it, slat mills are good for building wind.

As far as building muscle.. It's gonna be mostly genetics but constant activity and quality food will bring out the best in your dog. You can start drag weights around 7 months, using very very very light weight, springpole, carpet mills.. Alll of those things accentuate what your dog has genetically
cool. thanks!
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
 

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My last boy Dozer, he was a big boy, pulling low weights for long distances, rather than high weight for short distance, use a light light weight to start or even just the harness just to get him used to it, and have him start about about 30 yards, and work from 30-100 at a slow pace, once he can do that with ease, increase the weight and do it all over again, working slowly so it doesnt break him mentally, or wear him down.... long walks, and runs, he would job beside me on my bike when i would go for long rides, and well as i found hikes with his own pack on, mind you not to much in the pack, but he should be able to carry his own load of water it ads weight and helps you out as well.... as far as the food is concerned, i have no idea, i have always given my dogs 3 meals a day of wet and dry mix his meat low grain, seems to make them happier and keeps them healthier
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:39 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by TejReider View Post
My last boy Dozer, he was a big boy, pulling low weights for long distances, rather than high weight for short distance, use a light light weight to start or even just the harness just to get him used to it, and have him start about about 30 yards, and work from 30-100 at a slow pace, once he can do that with ease, increase the weight and do it all over again, working slowly so it doesnt break him mentally, or wear him down.... long walks, and runs, he would job beside me on my bike when i would go for long rides, and well as i found hikes with his own pack on, mind you not to much in the pack, but he should be able to carry his own load of water it ads weight and helps you out as well.... as far as the food is concerned, i have no idea, i have always given my dogs 3 meals a day of wet and dry mix his meat low grain, seems to make them happier and keeps them healthier
lol cool! thanks for posting! I'll do that
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I take game dog regiments, sled dog regiments, bear dog regiments, and some pulling dog regiments as well; Thats all I will say, but with that in mind it shouldn't be hard to find a regiment that works for you. Mcleod has something close; run, swim, flirt, spring pole, agility excercises.. etc...
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I take game dog regiments, sled dog regiments, bear dog regiments, and some pulling dog regiments as well; Thats all I will say, but with that in mind it shouldn't be hard to find a regiment that works for you. Mcleod has something close; run, swim, flirt, spring pole, agility excercises.. etc...
i think i understand
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:30 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcleod15 View Post
I've gotten good results with long distance running across country terrian, swimming, long distances sprints(200yards) and flirt pole exercise. Swimming is great exercise works the body good and its not hard on the dogs joints. If you have a dog that is interested in a spring pole this can be a very good exercise for your dog. I think that if you lower the rope so that the dogs hind legs are touching the ground once engaged with the rope, hide or whatever is attached, the dog is still holding a good % of his/her weight to strengthin the jaw and neck, but since the rope has been lowered they can drive backwards working multiple muscles throughout their body. I don't see the point and having your dog jump 5ft to hold on to a rope thats pointless, lower the rope and give your dog a more complete and safe work out.

When I get a pup, I get them outside at a young age, let them play at their own pace. I don't condition them, I just try to keep them active until they get tired and go to sleep. Once my dogs reach about 10months old I start exercising them a good bit, once they hit a year old they really get worked.
If I had a picture of my Boxer I use to have I would show you, he was fit that dog could pull a tree stump out the ground.

I'm not a expert in the nutrition, I've always just try to feel good quality kibble. My boxer ate cheap food and was monster(good genetics I say)

Keeping the weights at a reasonable amount is smart, you don't want to hurt the dog or break him mentally. work your way up slowly. I wouldn't max your dog out in weight pullinguntil the dog is aleast 1.5 years old.

I believe this type of conditioning could get your dogs body ready for weight pulling, worked for my dog Red.

Please excuse any grammer errors I'm tired.
Here is a video that shows you a visual of what I was trying to describe, this video shows how much more of work out your dog will get if the rope has been lowered versus if the dog is hanging in the air.

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Old 05-22-2010, 02:45 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Mcleod15 View Post
Here is a video that shows you a visual of what I was trying to describe, this video shows how much more of work out your dog will get if the rope has been lowered versus if the dog is hanging in the air.

YouTube - Spring pole play
i totally see what you mean. He looks as if he's getting more of a workout rather then just swinging in mid-air.

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