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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Rescue is abt 2 years old. He starts nipping my hands, when I stop him he comes at me harder! When I stand up and tell him to sit - he jumps up and tries to bite me. I have him on a leash tethered to my waist. I put him in the crate for time out! He gets very upset and barks, whines, bangs the crate. I ignore him till he quiets (eventually). He is basically untrainable as he gets over stimulated. The trainer cannot get his attention. He was locked in a garage for about a year. His owner was deployed to Afghanistan and left the dog to his dad. Dad did not have time for him. No exercise, no socialization, no training - no neutering. I have neutered him. He walks pretty well on a leash most of the time. He just gets so aggressive trying to bite my hands. I have hand fed him, pet him. He knows hands are good. Playing turns to aggression and I don't know how to control it. He has destroyed two crates! I have to crate him or he destroys my house. He starts to play with the Labradoodle - then turns serious. I separate them! We rotate them. I am hoping that he clam down. he is on doggie downers for now. I am thinking about putting him into rescue as I really don't feel I am capable of working with him. He is so cute, I would love to keep him but I don't want to fail him. I was reading about the piraha dogs..... my Baby looks like one with a really big, blocky head.
 

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Is he being aggressive or exited? I have an excite nipper and hes a pain in my ass lol.. He is better now as he gets a solid pop on the nose if he nips at me. That being said if the dog is being aggressive he needs to be put to sleep not passed around until he actually bites someone.

These dogs are also dog aggressive by nature so I would stop having him with your other before there is a serious fight you can't stop.

Also don't use a crate for punishment. Crates should be a safe zone for the dog and especially with his previous keeping you are making the crate to be a horrible place.

Are you using a regular buckle collar? I would try a prong collar that can give a more firm correction. Is he getting enough exercise now? These dogs require large amounts of exercise, a walk a day or being in a yard isn't enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I pop him, he just comes at me even harder! I wonder if it is extinction blast or if it is aggression! I really can't tell. He does have prey drive! Are my hands "prey"? He will lay beside me quietly. I will pet him and he will mouth my hand. I tell him "No!" And stop petting. He then tries to nibble my hand, I say "No" in a strong firm voice. He just comes harder! I get up and stand over and say "NO". He jumps to get my hand. I grab his collar from underneath, and say NO! and wait till he settles then say "good boy. good settle". I will release and he will come at me again. As I an new to the breed, I do not want to make harsh judgments. I have a prong collar and use that for walks. I have a choke collar in the house. No, he is not getting enough exercise. I walk him in the morning before I leave for work. It is about a 20 minute walk. I walk him at night for about an hour but he is still not tired. I throw a ball in the house. This dog is on uppers I swear - I cannot tire him out. If I work late, I come home at lunch time and walk him. My yard is not fenced and he can jump 5ft from a sitting position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How do you manage your multiple dogs? I have had a Rottie, German Sepherd, Beagle, Boxer, cat and two ferrets all at the same time. (I was younger then too). My Rottie just went to the bridge on July 4th - he died from Cushings - he and the Labradoodle were fine. I rescue and foster Rottweilers. I really have not encountered the energy level and strength of a pit before. They are beautiful, magnificent dogs and I really want to do this dog justice. We have gotten to where he sits on command, lays down on command - he will sit and "wait" when crossing a street or exiting the doorway. Nothing in life is free. He has to earn his food by sitting nicely. Treats have to be earned, etc. It is just this nipping I don't get. Is he challenging me? Is it an issue of learning manners? Is it just that everything is new and wonderful? I know it is lack of training during puppy hood. When in training he upsets the class. The trainer is going to come to the house in the hope that we can get more attention when there is less stimulation. Phew! I have a very deep respect for you pit bull owners. These are very intelligent (the thinking person's dog), very strong - dogs. They are amazing.
 

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I was just talking with someone in another thread about my dogs schedule which can be viewed here.
http://www.gopitbull.com/pictures/44740-crixus-xena-spock-just-chillin-kg-kitten.html

I would have him evaluated to see if it is aggression, dominance or what. I can say what I THINK , but having not seen the dog in person I can't say what is actually going on with him.

If a friend could video these issues that would help see the dogs behavior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would very much appreciate knowing what you think. I fully understand that without seeing the dog it is diffcult to make an accurate assessment but I would very interested in your thoughts. I have purchased chew bones and have them accessible around my house. When he starts the biting, I try to redirect with the chew toy. Sometimes it works - but my hands seem to be more fun.
There was a news story in NJ where a "pitbull" type dog got loose and was running in the town streets and attacked a pedestrian. How do you protect yourself from being bitten? They want to pass a law that all pitbulls - rottweilers be musseled. If a dog escapes the house, chances are he will not be musseled.
 

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My point with say I could share my thoughts is that no matter what I think, I still have no clue because I can't see the dogs behavior.

With younger dogs and nipping I will grab their mouth and hold onto it if they try to bite at me. I show that I bite back. It may be with my hands, but I will grab their lower jaw and hold it.


With this dog it could be a risk trying to grab him as he may continue to bite and cause harm to your hands ( normally they try to get you to let go by pulling away not biting).


Where are you located?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am in Haddon Heights, NJ (South Jersey just over the bridge from Philly). I do grab his mouth and hold it closed and he wiggles around - and pulls away. He does not bite. I have not grabbed the lower jaw. Thank you for your input. I really so appreciate you taking time to offer suggestions - opinions.
 

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I would try "biting back" more than pulling away. That way he gets that this is not fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I grabbed his lower jaw - he did not clamp down. He tried to pull away. I think that is good - and he is probably playing or thinks it is play. I have been redirecting - not always successful. He gets lazer focused on my hands. I called the University of Pennsylvania Vet Hospital - Behavior Dept. to speak with a specialist and check how much an evaluation would cost. It is a 4 hour evaluation with a behaviorist.
 

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I'm new to pits also but I'm not new to dogs at all I also have a rott, my pit pup doesn't have the drive you speak of but when I grab at his muzzle he does a little growl and a high pitch bark and yanks away to come at me, he's just playing with me. Your dog I'm unsure but a 4 hour observation seems like a bit much at whatever cost it may be.

I know every state has tons of trainers and I'm sure a good portion of them offer free evaluations to try to figure out the best method of training your dog needs. I know that's what they do here in ohio, the evaluations are usually 30 minutes to an hour. Also I wouldn't really have a vet evaluate your dog they're taught behavior yes but they don't really see it as often. A dog trainer will pick out behavioral issues faster than a vet since it's what he or she works with every single day.

I say this with the knowledge of a veterinary student lol not saying vets do not know they probably do, I just believe trainers will know faster. And when you pick a trainer you want to see how they work with their own dogs, if he's yelling all the time for even basic commands I wouldn't go with it, if they're talking to the dog as if it's like a human child don't do it, sounds like a petsmart trainer I'd go with a trainer that sounds extremely sure of what they're saying as if they have a PHD in it and make dog talk sound simple, if they're dogs respond to simple inside voice talk that's a good trainer. Dogs need simplicity make it clear and to the point.

You're dog is so hyper it would actually make a great trick dog. try teaching tricks along with exercise it will wear the dog out more with mental stimulation and tired dogs don't bite, bored dogs do.

Also I believe holding the dogs collar is a build up for the anxiety I noticed working with trainers that the high drive dogs if untrained will fight a bit more when you use a choke out unless in play. use the prong in the house and keep him on leash at all times busy with commands and correct for EVERYTHING his correction should be a quick pop (a good jerk) of the collar it snaps the dog outta it and they look at you like wtf? lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Samael: Thank you for the input. I have not heard from the U of P. I called the Pit Bull rescue and left a message for a call back to ask who they would recommend for an evaluation and training. Baby is an amazingly fast learner. He would do great in fly ball, frizbee, and probably agility. He can jump over 5ft. from a sitting position. His head hit my ceiling fan. The problem is I need him to settle down so I can get the basics down first, before he can do the other.
 
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