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OCD Bullyologist
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For those who have said their dog isn't doing well on a RAW diet, please read this. Either your dogs have diarrhea or vomiting, losing weight or a dull coat. This isn't uncommon for recently switched dogs to a raw diet. Some dogs do better than others handling the transition, but those dogs that have a bit of trouble in the beginning may need some extra help. This is where this page comes in for the rescue.


Diarrhea!
Yikes, this is the last thing we want to come home to or wake up to in the middle of the night. I know, I've been there and its not fun at all. What causes dogs to have diarrhea on a raw diet? Well, there are several very common reasons defined below:
1. Too much too fast.
There is a very good reason why the transition period for switching a dog to a raw diet takes several months. Taking things slow is vital to providing a smooth and easy transition for you and your dog. Most people who switch to raw, get so excited about it. Seeing their dogs improve in body condition and function, they dive in head first and rush the process. I know its exciting to see your dogs doing better on a natural diet, but stick to the schedule and take things slowly.
Some people worry about their dogs not getting balanced and complete nutrition for this transition period since we introduce each element of the diet gradually over weeks to months. Balance occurs over time, several months without every single element isn't going to make much of a difference over the course of the lifetime of the dog. Usually dogs are being switched from inappropriate diets full of fillers and carbohydrates, and still an improvement is made when JUST chicken is fed.
2. Not enough bone.
Whenever a dog gets loose stool or diarrhea, the default remedy that should come to mind is "get back to the basics." Many times its best to fast a dog 12-24 hours before feeding bone in chicken. Then go back to week #1 of the transition and feed nothing but high bone content chicken for several days until normal stools are observed for several days in a row.
The old school of thought based on kibble diets is to feed a bland diet of white rice and cooked/boiled chicken. Well, that needs to be thrown out with the kibble. Instead of doing rice and chicken, you feed bone heavy chicken and nothing but that.
3. Too much fat/rich foods.
A lot of fat or rich foods like red meats, organ meats or new protein sources can cause digestive upset. Again, get back to the basics. When you go to add these rich foods back in, start very slooooowwwwwly. Add in a piece that is tiny, pea or almond sized depending on the size of the dog. That tiny piece in "sandwiched" between two high bone content, lean meals. Gradually increase this amount over the course of weeks or months. It may take a long time for some dogs to tolerate a full meals worth of organ meat or even a red boneless meat.
Vomiting!
There are many different ways to perceive a vomiting episode. Some are completely harmless and some are definitely signs of a sick dog.
1. Regurgitation.
This isn't vomiting. It may appear to be the dog is vomiting, but in reality the dog is just bringing their meal up for another chew. Something about it wasn't sitting quite right or it didn't fit down the hatch on the first attempt. So the dog will bring their food up, and then re-eat it. Typically regurgitation happens within an hour of eating a meal and the dog is happy or eager to eat it once more. Some dogs are shy or bashful, who wont re-eat a regurgitated meal. I know that if I make a fuss or try and coax Bailey to re-eat a regurgitated meal, she wont because she is upset or ashamed. I've found that if I leave her alone, she will eat her regurgitated food again.
If a dog is regurgitating on a very regular basis, this can be a sign that your dog has an underlying issue. Regurgitation is a normal thing, but shouldn't be happening a lot. I would say in our household of 6 big dogs who are all raw fed, that we have one regurgitation once a month, at the most. If it happens more regularly than that I would have a dog examined to make sure there is no underlying medical issues that are the cause. Some dogs regurgitate more often than others, just for whatever reason, but its best to rule out any problems before assuming there aren't any.
2. Bone fragments.
Many people new to raw feeding freak out when they notice bone fragments either vomited up in the middle of the night or in a bowel movement. Newly switched dogs don't have the digestive power to break down whole bones right off the bat. It takes time for dogs to be able to break down bones fully by changing their digestive ability. Which again, is another reason to take things slowly and start with easy, pliable bones like chicken and turkey. The denser the bones, the more digestive power it will take to get through them.
Often times a dog will be switched without a hitch for the first month, until something like pork ribs are introduced. Pork bones are a bit heavier and more dense than chicken or turkey. Then they notice their dogs vomiting up bone fragments between meals. Why is this happening? The bone fragments that are left behind once the meat has been digested are irritating the stomach. So the dog brings them up in order to get their stomach feeling better. After time, bone fragments become less and less of an occurrence.
3. Hunger pukes.
Raw foods digest much faster than kibbles. Some dogs have episodes that we call the "hunger pukes" which basically means a dog isn't used to not having a system full of food all the time. On a kibble diet, their food lingers in their stomach longer than compared to a raw fed dog's. A normal, healthy dog will digest raw foods within 6-12 hours from one end to the other. On a raw diet, a dog may go most of the day without food in their system, which again takes time for them to get used to this. Hunger pukes usually come on either late at night or very early in the morning.
The way this issue is addressed by feeding meals that are closer together, and gradually increasing the time between meals. This gives a dog a chance to build up tolerance to not always having food in their stomach. Small and toy breed dogs just need to have several small meals per day, due to physiological reasons. These types of dogs are more prone to the "hunger pukes" so one must adjust their feeding habits based on their dog's body function.
4. Uncontrollable vomiting.
The dog cannot keep anything down, not even water. This is when you need to get your pet to the veterinarian because its just too easy to end up with a very serious case of dehydration and an even sicker dog.
Weight Loss!
This is an easy one, increase rations gradually over time. The approximate guideline of 2-3% of a dog's ideal adult weight is just a starting point. Some dogs need more, and some need less depending on activity levels, age and/or breed of dogs. You don't want to go from feeding 2% and jump up to 4% overnight. Make this transition slowly as well, taking weeks or months to do so. This isn't a common problem, but it is something that I've run across in my mentoring.
Dull coat!
1. Not enough GOOD fats.
Body condition is supposed to get better on a raw diet! Whats the issue with dogs who's coats get dry and dull after the transition? Most commercially produced meats are low in omega fatty acids due to low quality feeds. Typically grass fed, naturally reared animals are more nutritious to feed, but they can be more expensive and not available to all people. If you feed a lot of these kinds of meats you really should supplement with a omega fatty acid like salmon oil.
2. Too much bone.
After the initial transition, bone shouldn't be a large portion of the diet. Ideally you should feed the lowest amount of bone that can keep your dog from getting loose stool. Not every dog is the same, some require more bone to stay "regular" and some don't need all that much. Don't get me wrong, bone is a very important part of the diet, an essential part of the diet. For us, we alternate a bone inclusive meal with a boneless meal, once daily. This feeding schedule works well for most dogs once fully transitioned and its the one I suggest for most dogs.

Thanks to Prey Model RAW for this info
 

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good stuff that helps alot right now with our transition.so far so good though.Gonna go pick up some green tripe later.
 

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OCD Bullyologist
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
good stuff that helps alot right now with our transition.so far so good though.Gonna go pick up some green tripe later.
Read the Prey Model RAW as it is a step by step on how to go totally RAW. You can't just start adding anything and everything all at once as it will do more harm than good. Tripe should only be 15% of the meal. I gave Rangel Dangel the proportions.
 

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K9 Pshrynk & Conciliare~
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:goodpost: pitbullmammaatl

I dont know what its like feedin em hamburger or some cheap meat; my dogs get deer, bear, elk.. prime cuts many times .. The few times I've fed butcher scraps and bones ... but now they charge many times for that stuff to .. supply and demand..
 

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OCD Bullyologist
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
:goodpost: pitbullmammaatl

I dont know what its like feedin em hamburger or some cheap meat; my dogs get deer, bear, elk.. prime cuts many times .. The few times I've fed butcher scraps and bones ... but now they charge many times for that stuff to .. supply and demand..
Yeah I don't feed hamburger either lol I am patiently awaiting bow season here in GA hopefully I can stock up this Fall. I mad envy you out there in the "wild." lol

Kangol mostly eats chicken and turkey, as he doesn't tolerate red meat all that well. He does good on deer and goat though. Rabbit too but not sure what that is considered lol
 

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K9 Pshrynk & Conciliare~
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^^ thats awesome!!

rodents(small game) like Turkey, prarie chicken, squirrel and rabbit are great for dogs, throw fish in here or there and thats perfs..

I like the muscle factor I get from feeding these dog wild game.. .I had run out and had to grab some dry feed through jan til about 2 weeks ago .. to prime them for bear meat I started my regiment and I feed lil bite size morsels teaching them to each eat easily by hand. I only give a bout a racket ball to baseball size meal on the conversion to begin with. then as the week goes by I increase the amount to be up to 1/2 lb for the total day. I'll post up some pics of Hoagie, we've only dragged the chain once a week and well.. Hes badasz right off the couch ;) This was a great THREAD.. Good Point needs to be made. Control, Sense, and Accountability.. LOL <<<<:rofl: sums up owning the breed as well.. LOL
 

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OCD Bullyologist
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
^^ thats awesome!!

rodents(small game) like Turkey, prarie chicken, squirrel and rabbit are great for dogs, throw fish in here or there and thats perfs..

I like the muscle factor I get from feeding these dog wild game.. .I had run out and had to grab some dry feed through jan til about 2 weeks ago .. to prime them for bear meat I started my regiment and I feed lil bite size morsels teaching them to each eat easily by hand. I only give a bout a racket ball to baseball size meal on the conversion to begin with. then as the week goes by I increase the amount to be up to 1/2 lb for the total day. I'll post up some pics of Hoagie, we've only dragged the chain once a week and well.. Hes badasz right off the couch ;) This was a great THREAD.. Good Point needs to be made. Control, Sense, and Accountability.. LOL <<<<:rofl: sums up owning the breed as well.. LOL
Kangol would love him some bear I'm sure. That's hardcore, Stan!
 

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I started a raw meat diet 2 days ago. i started with chicken thighs, and fed ribs to them last night. two of the dogs love it and munch down but my female took some motivation. eventually she started eatings the ribs. Seems to only get to the bone to chew it lol, cause she wouldnt touch the other one. i also got a lot of veggies and grinded them up into ice cubes but the dogs dont really like it and will only eat it sometimes. i think it would be wise one day to feed a piece individually to see what they like. I know they like sweet potatoes =). only issue i am having right now is getting the meat. If there is a will there is a way!
 

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Ok hope this is an ok place to ask this , on weeks 7-8 on the prey model diet when adding organs is this only fed once a week? I know it says I can space it out over numerous feedings but is it best to just do the 1 meal or organs a week or did i misread that part?
 

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good question. i do mine 4 times a week. i put in a little less meat and add tripe, heart, or kidney. I dont do prey model though
 

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heart isnt an organ though , the organ meats are liver, kidney , pancrease, lungs ect but the heart and gizzards are considered muscle meats.
im thinking if they only need it once a week i would rather get it done with 1 feeding or 1 day litle easier I think as long as he eats it , says some dogs are picky with organ meat and my boy is extremely picky eater.
 

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I dont think it really matter on short time frequency, just as long as they get the right amount over a period of time. Organs should consist of 10-15% of the diet.. im sure you can skip days or even feed a little each day. whatever works should be fine.
 

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Iguess i will see how he takes to it , if he is really picky and doesnt like I I may have to do small portions and space it out kinda hide it in the food lol.
 

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OCD Bullyologist
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok hope this is an ok place to ask this , on weeks 7-8 on the prey model diet when adding organs is this only fed once a week? I know it says I can space it out over numerous feedings but is it best to just do the 1 meal or organs a week or did i misread that part?
I feed a little each day. If you just give 1 meal of heart or kidney you will have very loose stool as it is so rich. Basically I take 1 kidney and 1 heart and even it out into the meals I make every week.
 

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do you only use kidney? or should I just start with kidney { It says to start the heart about a week or so prior to organs. says its best to do a bit of kidney , lungs, pancreas ect for organs should I do this the same way everything else has been added just starting with one organ until there body is use to it...... actually I already know the answer lol just never fed raw before and second guessing everything lol. I will space it out throughout the week though instead of one feeding then. for a pup though half a heart should be fine for the week right? kangols alot bigger then crush so would assume he doesnt need the portions white dog needs , atleast not yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
do you only use kidney? or should I just start with kidney { It says to start the heart about a week or so prior to organs. says its best to do a bit of kidney , lungs, pancreas ect for organs should I do this the same way everything else has been added just starting with one organ until there body is use to it...... actually I already know the answer lol just never fed raw before and second guessing everything lol. I will space it out throughout the week though instead of one feeding then. for a pup though half a heart should be fine for the week right? kangols alot bigger then crush so would assume he doesnt need the portions white dog needs , atleast not yet.
I feed a variety of things. I feed kidney, lung, liver mainly though. You should just start out with 1 organ at a time bc they are rich. Eventually you will be able to mix it up. How much does Crush weigh and are you doing RAW/kibble mix or all RAW?
 

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no was going off the prey model diet , said its best to go cold turkey and just switch no kibble{ he wont eat kibble anyways unless we really beef it up and we tried various brands} , kinda the reason we switching him to raw cause he has no problem eating that lol. He weights about 30ish lbs right now , will get his weight again when we take him for stitch removeal today I think it was 33 lbs about 10 days ago.
 
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